Annapurna Area Escapades Day 1 and 2. "Instant Regret"

For the umpteenth time in my life, I have cheated death, again.

Okay, may be I am being a little too dramatic. I am an adventurous person but I don't go and seek to partake in risky activities like jumping off a cliff, climbing a steep mountain, walking into the unknown in a failing daylight when it's snowing - but in retrospect, I have done all that in the past week. Let me elaborate.

A week ago, I left Kathmandu with four people with the intention to trek to Khopra Ridge and come back with some good instagrammable pictures. I did come back with many great pictures but also I am glad to have come back with greater stories to tell. Normally, when I travel, I am on the driving seat. I decide where we go, when we go, how we go and every such things. I like being in control and knowing what's coming. Many a times, plans have succeeded and I have come back content. This time, however, I had been designated the passenger seat from where I couldn't even see where we were headed, much less have a say on the matter. I was feeling a bit uneasy on not knowing what was up. But my discomfort was a waste of time and I'm happy I realised that sooner. I came to know that I was on good hands and in a country like Nepal, the sooner you learn to thrive on uncertainty the better it is. We did not have trekking guides but we were in the company of seasoned trekkers, which is better in a way.

On the 23rd of October, we got on a microbus and left for Pokhara. The driving distance from Kathmandu to Pokhara is about 206 km but what with the winding hilly roads, the bumpy ride and the impossible traffic jams, it normally takes one about 6 to 7 hours to get there. If you're travelling by tourist bus, it's worse. We started off at 7 am and reached Pokhara by 2 pm. We had our lunch and took a ride on a local bus to Hari Chowk. From there, at 4 pm we hired a jeep to get to Ghandruk (1940 m) via Nayapul. The last time I had gone to Ghandruk, I had walked to the village from Nayapul which is about 3-4 hours uphill walk. This time though, we didn't have time so, we rode to the base of the village and reached our hotel by 7:30 pm. 

We had picked up 3 more friends along the way. We were now a company of eight people, among whom I knew only three. Dinner at the hotel was standard - daal bhaat tarkari which was typical : yum and nutritious. The Internet connection was a bit weak but working. 

The next morning, I woke up at 6 am knowing the sunrise time was 6:16 am. Our hotel wasn't in a good location so we couldn't get a nice view of the mountains despite the morning being clear. But that wasn't something we were concerned about because, we were going to get closer to the mountains at the end of the journey anyways.

We had our breakfast and after packing our bags, we started walking at 7:50 am. (Pro tip: Do not carry two small bags, carry a big bag instead, it's easier. I learned that the hard way.) 

Our group wasn't that big but eight people have different paces, so as it was bound to happen, we dispersed and guess who lost their way first? Me and company. We realised that early enough though and regrouped soon. We were headed to Tadapani where we were going to have our lunch. The way was pleasant enough at the beginning but the bags started to get heavier, the trail steeper and harder. I have to admit, there were plenty of moments as my body started to sweat profusely and as breathing started to get harder, I began to regret the whole decision. I couldn't tell this to anyone for fear of being laughed at. Everyone was walking easily and no one was complaining. And the worst part was that it was just Day 1 - first hour. Reaching Tadapani felt like the hardest I had ever exerted myself in my entire life.  It was only after reaching Tadapani (2630 m) and seeing the map that I realised we had climbed about a thousand meters in only 3 hours. And slowly my friends started to confess their struggles. And that was when I realised it was normal because the climb was indeed very tough and I wasn't weak. We relaxed for about an hour and started off at noon. The weather was partly cloudy.

As we climbed higher up, it started to get colder and I gave up on trying to find network for my phone. I started to get to know the rest of my group gradually. We reached Meshar Daada (2969 m) at 2 pm where I had the best tea ever (probably because it was cold and I wanted refreshment). We met many people along the way; those who were climbing with us were mostly going to Ghorepani otherwise, most were descending towards Ghandruk. We were the only ones heading towards Dobato. We saw a lot of porters carrying bags that looked like they weighed a hundred kilos, young trekkers (as young as 7) to old (I didn't ask but they looked like they were better off relaxing at their own homes, however you have to respect their agility) and even some mules. The first day felt like a carnival for hikers and we were met with hundreds of Namastes. 

From Meshar Daada onwards, we met very few travellers. We took another break at Isaru (3137 m) for tea just because the view was amazing and the tea shop didi friendly. The group was circulating and the changing company was giving us chance to get to know each other better. Throughout our journey, we got to see copious amount of rhododendron trees which were bare at that time but we couldn't help but wonder how it would be to be there at the time when they bloom. The thought itself was a motivation to go back, if not for the walk. 

Around sunset time, we were in the proximity of mountainous view and we were left in total awe. The trail had started to go easy on us by then; may be it was the thrill of being so close to the mountains or may be it was just the relief that we were almost there.

We reached Dobato (3426 m) at 7:30 pm and finally got to rest our weary bodies. My friends complained of aching legs, but all I could think about was how my back was hurting because of the heavy bags.  I figured a good night's rest was all I needed to recover, but at the same time I was fearing that I would wake up with an exacerbated body ache. A 6 hour trek to Khopra was up the next day and I needed sleep.

Summary:

Kathmandu to Pokhara to Ghandruk (1940 m) - Bus and Jeep (7 am to 7:30 pm)

Ghandruk to Dobato (3426 m) - Walking (7:50 am to 7:30 pm) via Bhaisikharka, Tadapani, Meshar Daada and Isaru (plenty of strenuous uphill climb but also lots of easy trails, picturesque view of Annapurna, Machhapuchhre, Himchuli etc, spots to buy food along the way)